Wide open to the full blast of the north-east monsoon between October and January, Malaya’s east coast is a place of enchantment for the rest of the year. In the states of Trengganu, Pahang and Kelantan fishermen sail under the protection of ancient Gods, while on shore the people gather to watch dance-combats or traditional court dramas.
‘The smooth journey across the water was an interlude of enchantment. The stars were close. The wash of the gliding ferry was bright with phosphorous and gleaming fish leapt through the dark, falling round us with luminous plops. The breeze was warm, and we stood in a tired silence of wonder, half expecting the stars to sing and the fish to talk.’
This is how one traveller described the mood of the legendary east coast states of Pahang, Trengganu and Kelantan.
The traveller in a hurry will probably fly to Kuantan, or perhaps drive up the fast road from Singapore; but ideally one should go up the winding road from Kuala Lumpur through the mountains and jungles of Pahang. The journey is longer, but the giant trees are a preparation for what is to come. From Kuantan the road leads north. On the right the palms, feathery casuarinas and spiky screw pines provide a tantalizing screen whose gaps reveal glimpses of golden beaches pounded by the white surf breakers of the China Sea. The Malaya fishing villages, raised on stilts, provide oases of shadow in the hot sun. At night, while moonlight silvers the palms, fires flares in the darkness and the air is filled with the scent of musk and the sound of drums.
Malays, with their soft speech and bright sarongs, will often foregather to watch the shadow play, or perhaps the graceful dance-combat of silat, the Malay art of self-defense.
In Trengganu with its 600 mosques the traveller may lie awake on the sands for giant turtles to appear. The islands of Redang are the semangat, or soul, of Trengganu. There among the coral depths one can peer down through transparent waters and see formation of fish like black bombers swimming thirty feet below. By day hunters scale the cliffs in search of the nest from which birds’-nest soup is made, while by night the flares of fishing boats spread a line of flame across the horizon.
In Kelantan, ‘land of Lighting’, there are not only shadow plays and silat, but Thai operas and Malay court dramas, village contests of songs and kites and spinning tops. When the royal drums re-echo among the hills, it is a reminder that power over the spirits of the points of the compass lies in the fingertips of the man who plays the red, green and gold rebab.
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Itinerary
DAY 1 ARRIVE IN HO CHI MINH CITY, VIETNAM
Welcome to Ho Chi Minh City, still known to many as Saigon. Hotel rooms are available for mid-afternoon check-in.
DAY 2 HO CHI MINH CITY
Start your PRIVATE GUIDED SIGHTSEEING with a WALKING TOUR of the city’s famous and historic landmarks as you stroll through the heart of the city along Dong Khoi Street (formerly Rue Catinat) past the Rex Hotel, Ho Chi Minh Square, the Municipal Theatre, Central Post Office, and Notre Dame Cathedral. Next, visit the REUNIFICATION PALACE and the moving WAR REMNANTS MUSEUM. The afternoon is at your leisure to explore this lively city.
DAY 3 HO CHI MINH CITY
Today, enjoy a half-day PRIVATE GUIDED EXCURSION to the CU CHI TUNNELS, an extraordinary network of tunnels more than 120 miles in length that was used by the Viet Cong as a hideout during the war. Return to Ho Chi Minh City for time at leisure this afternoon.
DAY 4 HO CHI MINH CITY–HOI AN
After a short flight to Danang, a transfer will bring you to your hotel in Hoi An.
DAY 5 HOI AN
Explore Hoi An on a PRIVATE GUIDED TOUR. Start with a CRUISE on the Thu Bon River. Along the way, meet a local fisherman who will teach you about their fishing methods and give you a FISHING LESSON, where you will learn how to throw and retrieve a traditional round fishing net called a ro. Afterward, you will have a chance to throw the net yourself and see what you catch! Later, join a WALKING TOUR of Hoi An, visiting an old MERCHANT HOUSE, the HOI AN MUSEUM, a CHINESE ASSEMBLY HALL, and the Japanese Covered Bridge. Then, free time to enjoy this quaint town further or to relax at your resort.
DAY 6 HOI AN–HANOI
Today, fly to Hanoi, the nation’s capital and one of Southeast Asia’s most engaging cities. The remainder of the day is at your leisure.
DAY 7 HANOI
This morning, focus on Ho Chi Minh, the father of modern Vietnam, during your PRIVATE GUIDED TOUR. First, visit the Mausoleum and the humble cottage from which “Uncle Ho” ruled Vietnam until his death in 1969. Next on the agenda: the One Pillar Pagoda, the Ho Chi Minh Museum, and the Presidential Palace. Also visit the ancient Temple of Literature, over 900 years old and Hanoi’s first university.
DAY 8 HANOI–HA LONG BAY CRUISE
Your private transfer takes you from Hanoi through the fertile countryside to Hon Gai, gateway to Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Located in the Gulf of Tonkin, the bay is dotted with over 3,000 limestone islands carved into fanciful shapes by the action of the water. Upon arrival, board an OVERNIGHT CRUISE that takes you to explore the tunnels, caves, pristine beaches, and floating villages that are sprinkled across the bay. While on board, enjoy a TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE COOKING DEMONSTRATION with the ship’s chef. You may also choose to relax with a spa treatment.
DAY 9 HA LONG BAY CRUISE–HANOI–SIEM REAP, CAMBODIA
Early birds can participate in a TAI CHI DEMONSTRATION on the sun deck at the break of dawn. Disembark later this morning for a private transfer to Hanoi to catch a flight to Siem Reap, your base for exploring the temples of Angkor. Constructed between the 9th and 13th centuries, the temples are unmatched among the world’s ancient ruins.
DAY 10 SIEM REAP
Your PRIVATE GUIDED SIGHTSEEING starts at the best preserved of all the temples—Angkor Wat, which honors the Hindu god Vishna. Next stop is Angkor Thom to see Bayon Temple. One of the few Buddhist temples in Angkor, it features some 200 striking faces carved in 54 towers. Enjoy the afternoon at leisure.
DAY 11 SIEM REAP
This morning, explore more of the Angkor temple complex on a PRIVATE GUIDED TOUR. Visit Banteay Srei, a unique, small temple built from red sandstone and dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. Then, on to Ta Prohm, which has been left relatively untouched, unlike many other temples. Here, the jungle surrounds you, and tree roots grow over and through the ruins. The afternoon is at your leisure.
DAY 12 SIEM REAP–LUANG PRABANG, LAOS
Today, fly to Luang Prabang. The remainder of the day is at your leisure.
DAY 13 LUANG PRABANG
Today, enjoy a full-day PRIVATE SIGHTSEEING TOUR of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visit WAT VISOUN, the ROYAL PALACE MUSEUM (closed Tuesdays), and a LOCAL VILLAGE to see silk weaving and rice paper-making demonstrations.
DAY 14 LUANG PRABANG
A full day at your leisure.
DAY 15 LUANG PRABANG–BANGKOK
Fly to Bangkok. The remainder of the day is at your leisure.
DAY 16 BANGKOK
Your vacation ends with breakfast this morning.
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